10/3/10 - 10/9/10 (taipei)

Taipei

While in Taiwan we have turned into night owls. Jon wakes up around 8am where he gets to spend a few hours of solitude time before the rest of us wakes up. The first thing my sister asks when she wakes up is what time Jon woke up to determine if he is hungry. Both my sister, Grace, and brother-in-law, Arnold sleep in really late usually till 11am so she is worried that Jon may get hungry in the morning. We’ll go to the breakfast club to have a quick bite or just wait till lunch. Depending on Arnold’s work schedule we might go sightseeing around Taipei or hang around the house. Then in the evening we go out to dinner, often with Grace and Arnold’s friends. We end the evening with beer and tea on the roof deck as it is much cooler up there. The running joke is that Jon and I will want to go to sleep but Arnold will insist that we stay up there for five or ten more minutes, which inevitably turns into half an hour or longer. Arnold has gotten very skilled in saying, “one more?” Before we know it it is 2am already. Where does the time go?

Jon’s Mandarin (and Taiwanese) has gotten increasingly better during our stay here. Even friends have commented on how much he has improved since the last time they saw him. He now knows how to have everyday simple conversations with people. Every day he learns new phrases and adds them to his iphone. He also has learned some slang and curse words which make people crack up since they don’t expect him to know them. He is hoping to be able to communicate with my parents when we return to the states.

Over the last week we visited the major sights in and around Taipei. One afternoon we went to the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall where we just happened to have caught the soldiers taking down the flag. The flag ceremony draws a crowd each day. On another day we visited the National Palace Museum home to what many consider to house the most precious and largest collection of Chinese Art. The museum has become a major tourist attraction for tour groups from China since many of them consider the art their country’s property. Even though we went on a weekday the museum was packed with hundreds of tour groups. The main attraction is the jade cabbage. There was a piece of jade that wasn’t very pretty so the artist decided to shape into a cabbage to hide the jade’s flaws. The undesirable jade turned into a masterpiece. Grace speculates that the jade on display is a replica even though the tour guides insisted to their groups that they are looking at the original. She said that the real one is locked away for fear that someone may steal it as it has drawn big crowds over the last few years. After the museum we headed over to the Shilin Night Market, perhaps the best night market in Taipei. The night market is one of my favorite things to do with endless shops and it is also a great place for people watching. We ended our week with a visit to Taipei 101, which was the tallest building in the world a few years back. The first few floors are filled with upscale shops with offices in the middle and the observation deck on the 98^th and 99^th floor. Unfortunately the outside observation deck wasn’t open due to rain so we decided to come back another day to view the city from up above.

When speaking of Taiwan you can't leave out the food, which is world famous. Every time I arrive I give my sister a list of my favorites: oyster noodle soup, stinking tofu, guava, wax apple, radish cake, oyster pancake, fruit slushi and the list goes on and on. There are so many food stalls, mom and pop shops, upscale restaurants, and fruit and tea shops that it’s hard not find something that pleases everyone’s palate. One of Jon’s favorite drinks is boba milk tea. Jon limits himself to two bobas a week but if people offer it to him then it doesn’t count toward his limit. The running joke is that Arnold and Grace will ask him everyday if he wants one. Grace insists that we eat as much as we can while we are here. I have to say it’s hard to turn down the food.

10/1/10 - 10/2/10 (singapore)

Singapore - Taipei

After our quick turnaround in Singapore we were on our way to Taiwan. Annie was excited to see her oldest sister and brother-in-law and visit her “mother country.” We woke up at 4 am to pack and catch a cab to the airport. When we arrived at 5:30 am the representative at JetStar informed us we needed an outbound ticket from Taiwan to board our flight. We then scrambled for the next hour to get internet access and reluctantly booked a ticket back to the United States. It took a stubborn ticket agent from a discount airline to finally get us to commit to return home. We then provided the proof with five minutes to spare and boarded our flight to Taiwan that went smoothly. 

We arrived in the early afternoon and did not need to provide proof of an outbound ticket. Grrr! We were greeted by hundreds of crazed teenage girls. Finally all of this blogging has paid off. Unfortunately, the warm welcome wasn’t for us. A Korean rock star arrived shortly after us and it was fun to watch as he entered into his limo sending the crowd into a frenzy. Grace and Arnold picked us up shortly after our arrival and we were on our way to their 9th story condo in Luzhou, a bustling suburb of Taipei. We settled in and relaxed for a few hours. Later that night we met with a business associate of Arnold's nicknamed the Bird Man to discuss some LED lighting technology business opportunities over dinner. I drew many curious looks being a lone long haired white man visiting a very Taiwanese area of Taipei. 

We got a late start on Saturday and eventually made our way to Yanmingshan National Park, a beautiful mountainous area outside of Taipei known for its hot springs. We made our way to the pinnacle of the mountain to capture some photographs and take in an epic sunset before settling into a very rustic hot springs bath. 

Later that night we met the cast of characters who would have a large influence on our Taiwan experience. I was given my first lesson on Taiwanese social and drinking culture. We visited Arnold’s friend nicknamed Diamond Boss where we also met Angel, Meow Meow, and Two Horse. The thing about drinking in Taiwan is that you can’t drink alone, the proper way to drink is to cheers someone. Being new to the group, each time I met someone I had to do a shot of beer. I proceeded to get as drunk as I have been in years as my Taiwanese friends took great delight in testing my alcohol limits teaching me new drinking games. Ugway Ugway Caio! By the time we left, my social calendar was filled up for the next week with dinner engagements with our new friends. Welcome to Taiwan! 

9/29/10 - 9/30/10 (ho chi minh)

Ho Chi Minh - Singapore

It was a world wind tour of Singapore. We arrived at noon and made our way to a hostel called the InnCrowd. As we boarded the train from the airport we admired the cleanliness of the streets. We heard rumors of how strict the country is in keeping its streets tidy and people are fined for not flushing the toilet or if they spit on the street. As we walked to our hostel we saw signs warning people not to spit. Oh…how the Vietnamese would hate that law.

After settling into our place we grabbed lunch at a nearby hawkers place where there were 50 food stalls lined up next to each other. We felt the need to go sightseeing since we had limited time but we were dragging our feet. We had a full day planned for the following day so we decided to head back and take a quick nap. Our hostel was located in Little India and at night the streets came alive with people blaring music from their shops to jewelry shops luring you with their gold merchandise. The restaurants’ turmeric and curry scents filled the streets. We grabbed dinner at a vegetarian Indian restaurant and met a friendly waitress who helped us order since nothing on the menu was familiar to us. Jon was insistent that we not go back to our hostel till 10pm so we walked around hoping to grab a beer at a bar. We were astonished at how expensive the beer was. We couldn’t bear to spend $9USD on a bottle of beer so instead we went to 7-Eleven, grabbed two big Tiger beer bottles for $12USD, and sat outside our hostel people watching. We didn’t realize we hadn’t changed the time on our phone so in actuality it was already 11pm. We were proud of ourselves for staying out late.

Jon had done a lot of research online about Singapore and planned an entire day hitting the highlights of the country. Since we were on limited time we decided to take taxis everywhere rather than buses. We started our day with a walk around the botanical garden. It was a beautiful park with people doing tai chi and yoga. There were all sorts of fascinating plants and flowers that we had never seen. We felt like we were at Golden Gate Park except mostly everyone here had black hair and it was cleaner than GGP. Our next stop was the Sacred Buddha Tooth and Relic Temple. Just as we hopped into the cab there was a huge downpour. This was going to put a damper on our plans as we were hoping to catch a nice sunset. The temple was intricately decorated. On the top level was a shrine honoring Buddha’s tooth. We are not sure if one of his teeth was actually displayed but either way the shrine was covered in gold. The third level was a museum chronicling Buddha’s life. It was one of the more elaborate temples we have seen. When we exited the temple it was still raining so we waited outside for an hour till it became a light sprinkle. Then we walked to the Chinatown Heritage Center, which had a multi-level display documenting the Chinese migration to Singapore. The center had replicas of shops and homes showcasing what life was like back then. Afterwards we headed to another hawkers stall hoping to find chili crab, which is a specialty in Singapore. Unfortunately we didn’t find any and ended up grabbing some other local dishes…porridge and spaghetti.

Our tour continued onward to the Ritz Carlton Hotel where we went on an ipod tour of the hotel's artwork. We really wanted to catch Dale Chihuly’s glass artwork in San Francisco but missed the exhibit and heard that some of his artwork was at the Ritz. We felt a little underdressed in our shorts and flip-flops at the Ritz but the staff was very friendly. They gave each of us a mini-ipod with a recording describing the artwork on display. We walked around the hotel admiring various artists. Before heading back to the hostel we made a quick pit stop at Raffles Hotel where I took a photo with the doorman. Jon read online it was one of the touristy things to do. The doorman was dressed in an old Arabian-style uniform.

For dinner we headed over an upscale hawkers stall on the waterfront near the Singapore Flyer. It was a beautiful evening with cool wind. We found a stall selling chili crab. I devoured two crabs by myself as Jon watched in amusement. We ended the night with a stroll along the riverfront. 

9/27/10 – 9/28/10 (ho chi minh city)

Ho Chi Minh City

After almost a month in Vietnam we were nearing the end of our time there. We went to Ben Thanh Market to purchase a few souvenirs. The market sells everything from clothes to vegetables to coffee beans. We have become adept in our bargaining and even worked out a team strategy. Jon plays the good cop and offers a very low price and after a bit of back and forth haggling I come in with a final offer, ready to walk away if needed. The lanes are very narrow and often the shopkeepers will grab your arm to introduce you to their products. It can be a bit overwhelming with shops next to each other selling the same exact product. After a few hours we were ready to leave the madness and return to the serenity of the penthouse.

On our last full day I joined a cooking class. It had been something I wanted to do ever since we arrived in Vietnam. There were only three of us in the class so we got plenty of personal attention. The other two were an Argentinean couple on a honeymoon who were also foodies. The class started with a tour of the produce, meat, and spices at Ben Thanh Market. We then drove to the school where our teacher introduced us to the dishes we would be making. We learned how to make fish sauce, spring rolls, coconut rice, sour clams soup with dill, and caramel pork in clay pot. I had a lot of fun but the best part was being able to sit down afterwards to taste our delicious dishes. We left with a full belly and recipe book.

Later on in the evening Ross and Kate invited us to join them for a dinner party at their home in honor of an Australian federal judge visiting Vietnam. The judge toured the country hosting workshops for the Vietnamese judiciary branch. It had been a long time since we were at a dinner party drinking wine and socializing with people who spoke English. For a moment we were transformed back to our old life.

At first we debated not visiting Vietnam for many reasons but now after having spent a month here we are glad we came. Sapa is one of the prettiest places we have seen on our travels but the best part about Vietnam was seeing Ross, Kate and their family again. It was like seeing old friends even though we had only met them briefly in Siem Reap.

Ross and Kate…thank you for your generosity and hospitality. You made us feel so much at home. If any zombies cross your path let us know. We hope to see you all again.

9/26/10 (ho chi minh city)

Ho Chi Minh City – Cu Chi Tunnel – Ho Chi Minh City

You can’t come to Ho Chi Minh City, or as many people in the south still loving refer to it as Saigon, without visiting the Cu Chi Tunnel. The Cu Chi Tunnel is an extensive network of underground tunnels that runs 250 km long all over Saigon. There are three levels with the first level only a few meters under the ground, which included fully self-sufficient hospitals to living corridors. Sometimes the Viet Cong (VC) had to stay underground for months at a time with very little air. The second and third levels were smaller allowing the VC to roam the underground and go deeper when American and Australian bombs tried to eradicate the VC soldiers. It is said that the tunnel of the third level is so small that you have to crawl on your hands and knees.

Early in the morning a driver and a guide came to pick us up at the hotel to take us to the tunnel. The guide’s father was a former VC doctor so the guide shared with us stories of the harsh life of the soldiers. All the tunnels were dug by hand and in order to avoid suspicion they dumped the soil into the Saigon River or rice paddies. The people were amazingly resourceful and tenacious. They made shoes out of rubber tires as there was an abundance of tires around. Also they collected enemy bombs that didn’t detonate to reuse against the enemy.

Cu Chi Tunnel is now a huge tourist attraction but you are still able to get a glimpse of what it was like back in the day. First we saw a simulated trap tunnel where the soldiers would place a bomb near the opening if they saw enemy soldiers closing in on their location. The tunnel openings are all very well disguised and the air holes are the size of a straw. The Americans had dogs sniff out the openings and air holes to root out the VC. When the VC learned of this they placed chili and pieces of enemy clothing to divert the dogs.

Jon and I stepped into the opening of a tunnel to get a sense of how small they were. Our guide then asked us to close the door to get a sense of how dark it was. There are no lights just lanterns and flashlights. Then we went through a 10-meter tunnel with a special tunnel guide. After just a few minutes both Jon and I had worked up a healthy sweat. It is unbelievable how small the tunnels are and can easily cause claustrophobia. To make the setting even more surreal there was a shooting range next to the tunnels so as you are touring the grounds you can hire gunfire in the distance. I couldn’t imagine what it was like for both sides of the war.

After touring the tunnels we ended our tour with a video showing what Cu Chi was like before the war. There was nothing diplomatic or neutral about the movie. It wasn’t surprising how one sided the movie was in depicting a serene quiet town where people happily lived together before the evil Westerners came to destroy everything. It was a bit hard to watch as the movie blatantly called the Americans, specifically Washington D.C., destroyers of good. Nonetheless, regardless of one’s opinion of the war it is hard not to admire the sheer willpower of the Vietnamese.

9/24/10 – 9/25/10 (ho chi minh city)

Ho Chi Minh City

After a full day of sightseeing yesterday we decided to enjoy the luxuries of the penthouse suite. We relaxed at the house catching up on our reading, podcasts, and blog. We didn’t venture far for lunch as there was a full service restaurant right downstairs. If we wanted to we could’ve ordered room service but thought the walk downstairs would be good for us. Even though we didn’t leave the building at least we could say we left the house. It is amazing how quickly the day goes even when we do very little because before we knew it Ross was home from work. We had very little to report on our day so the running joke became Ross asking us if we left the building each day. I guess he caught on to our routine quickly.

Jon developed a friendly rapport with the twins, Dana and Liesl, over Wii games. They even gave him the nickname of Joe and would only call Jon by his nickname. Each afternoon Jon looked forward to the kids coming home and asking them when they could play. But luckily the kids were well behaved and finished their homework first.

The adults decided to go out to dinner. We had drinks and appetizers at a Lebanese restaurant. It was a little strange to see Vietnamese men dressed in Lebanese outfits. The food was delicious. Kate and I developed a liking to the rose martini. There was just a hint of rose and made the drink go down very easily. Then we headed off to an Indian restaurant and I had the spiciest food of my life. After the first bite, my mouth was on fire but I couldn’t stop eating it. It was a slow burning sensation and I had to keep drinking the mango lassi just to cool my mouth. After a very full meal we decided to walk home. Ross and Kate live in district 3 bordering district 1 where all the shops and restaurants are located so it was very convenient for us to get around.

The next day we joined Ross for a hot stone massage while Kate and the kids relaxed by the pool. It was the first time Jon and I had a hot stone massage and it was very relaxing. We were in such a tranquil state that we all just lounged around for the rest of the afternoon. Later that night we went out to dinner with the whole family. Sara, their eldest daughter, flew in late in the afternoon from Australia where she was attending boarding school. The whole Hetherington family was together. Kate and I liked the rose martini so much that we decided to go back to the Lebanese restaurant. We had a great meal with great friends.

9/23/10 (ho chi minh city)

Ho Chi Minh City

Our first full day in Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon. Our plan was to visit the Reunification Palace and the War Remnants Museum. These sites are within a few blocks of our new plush penthouse suite and we were out the door by 9:30am. The Reunification Palace is the famous last scene of the Southern Vietnamese resistance before the Viet Cong tanks crashed through the gates on April 30, 1975 to assumed power and effectively ending the Vietnam War. The Palace is essentially untouched from its 1960 architecture and decor and provides a window back into these historic times. 

The Palace is four stories tall and surrounded by a city block of greenery and gardens. The first two stories were administrative offices and Presidential rooms but when you get to the third and forth floor things got more interesting as they had a movie theater, dance floor, game room, and helipad. We then made our way down to the basement and my favorite part of the tour. The basement was the center of communications and the narrow rooms were lined with old radios and receivers. The walls were covered in historical maps. They also had a photo gallery and English video displaying the historical highlights flavored with a strong Communist bias against the Imperialist Americans. 

Annie and I decided to grab some lunch and ran into a fellow American named Judd headed to the same destination. We all ate together and enjoyed exchanging traveling tales during lunch. 

After lunch all three of us went to the War Remnants Museum, formerly known as the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes. We were once again treated to a very different viewpoint of the Vietnam War. The museum had thousands of war relics including several US tanks, helicopters, and airplanes parked out front. The aim of the museum is to give an “honest” record of the Vietnam War and they have done a wonderful job of portraying America as an evil empire showcasing many of the atrocities the US committed. It was an interesting take and very different from what I had grown up seeing. While the opinions probably weren’t the most balanced it was incredibly disturbing to see some the horrific devastation from this drawn out conflict. They had several exhibits showcasing the awful effects of Agent Orange on the Vietnamese and Cambodians. The highlight of the experience was the Requiem Exhibition organized by American war photographer Tim Page that highlights the work of photographers on both sides of the conflict. Some of the best pictures were taken by Larry Burrows and used in Life magazine in the 60’s. 

After a sombering day, the three of us decided to have some locally brewed beer at Hoa Vien. Hoa Vien was a wonderful beer garden enjoyed by local Vietnamese and recommended by Ross. After several beers and many laughs, we met up with Ross and returned back to his place for dinner. We met one of Ross' coworkers, Richard, and swapped Australian stories for the next hour before heading to bed. A solid day in Saigon.

9/22/10 (hoi an)

Hoi An - Ho Chi Minh City

I woke up early to capture the morning light along the river in Old Town Hoi An on our final morning before our flight to Saigon. When I returned to the hotel, I met Annie on the third floor for breakfast and we packed our belongings and checked out. The trip to the Danang airport took forty five minutes and we were at the airport with plenty of time to spare before our departure. The flight was half full and I coordinated a row to myself for the hour long trip to Ho Chi Minh (HCMC). When we arrived, we took a taxi to the address our friend Ross had provided in downtown HCMC.

Ross, Kate, and their four children are an Australian family we met in Siem Reap, Cambodia. We all stayed at the same guest house and became friends. Ross offered us a spare bedroom when we made it to HCMC. The accommodations turned out to be a penthouse suite on the twentieth floor complete with three stories and an epic rooftop deck overlooking the entire cityscape. We have been very fortunate along our travels and were once again living the life of luxury. 

After settling in, we joined Kate on her way to the Majestic Hotel to meet Ross for some rooftop cocktails. I got a chance to admire the unique driving styles of the Vietnamese from far above during rush hour. A sea of motorbikes engaged in ”organized chaos,” as Ross affectionately calls it. After two drinks, we decided to have dinner at Ben Thanh Market for a somewhat authentic Vietnamese meal. The only way Ross can identify his preferred food stall is by spotting the two dangling frogs that hang out front. We were seated in the customary plastic red table and chairs and enjoyed steamed snapper, fried spring rolls, morning glory, rice, and Saigon Red beer. After a huge meal, the four us explored the local market trying our best to avoid the steady stream of motorbikes that squeezed through the narrow streets. The night was busier than usual with increased activity due to the full moon festivities.

After a fun evening we retired back to our very comfortable accommodations for a good night's sleep.

9/19/10 - 9/21/10 (hue)

Hue – Hoi An

Our friend, Ross, had given us an itinerary of highlights to see while in Vietnam and one of them was the drive from Hue to Danang called the Hai Van Pass. We took his advice  and hired a car and driver to take us down to Hoi An. Our first stop was Lang Co Beach with white sand and crystal clear water. Regrettably we didn’t have our bathing suits on but dipped our feet in the cool ocean water. Next we drove along the pass with views of the mountain on one side and the South China Sea on the other. It was a pretty drive and parts of it reminded us California. Our last stop before Hoi An was supposed to be the marble mountains but we were feeling tired and hot and decided to head straight toward Hoi An. Along the way we passed Danang, the third largest city in Vietnam. It was a weird stretch of the road as there were tons of half built resorts along the ocean. One property was about thirty percent built and had a for sale sign on it. I guess Danang also felt the economic crunch.

We arrived at Hoang Trinh Hotel in Hoi An and were warmly greeted by the staff. Over the last three days the staff took extremely good care of us. Everyone knew what room we stayed in, what we did each day, and when we were leaving. Each time we returned to the hotel the staff greeted us with the warmest smiles. At first we were a bit thrown off by their attentiveness but then realized they were an extremely efficient and friendly team. They cleaned our room while we were having breakfast and in the afternoon they offered yogurt as a snack. Their breakfast selection was also amazing with a full plate of fruit each morning. Upon our departure they gave each of us a little souvenir and waved from the hotel as we got into the car. Overall in terms of hospitality it was one of the nicest places we have stayed at during our travels and highly recommend it to anyone.

Our lovely stay at the hotel complimented the quaint town of Hoi An. The town reminded me a lot of Luang Prabang with its old French buildings and a river running through it. Open-air restaurants line both sides of the river and shops. It is estimated that there are more than 300 tailors in Hoi An and you can give them a picture of any outfit and they can replicate it. We wished we had been more on our game and visited a tailor to make Jon a tux since it is much more reasonably priced here. This is also an area where cars and motorbikes are not allowed which makes for a pleasant stroll since you aren’t worried about being run over by vehicles, though you still have to watch out for bicyclists. 

On our second day we rented a bike and rode to the beach. On our first day we didn’t plan very well as we didn’t bring towels or bathing suits. We were just planning on riding out to the beach to check it out. But it was so hot that we decided to relax on lounge chairs enjoying the peacefulness at Cua Dai Beach. Later that night we walked around town checking out the shops. It was the day before the full moon festival so there were lion dances all over town. There were young group of boys rolling around town with a drum and lion outfits getting money donations from shop owners and tourists. The older boys had more elaborate outfits with neon lights and one group even had a bamboo stick for the lion to climb up on. It was quite a spectacle as the performances drew large crowds and caused many traffic jams. What was also really pretty were the laterns on the rooftop of each of the shops. The laterns gave the area a historic sentimental feel.

The next day Jon woke up early in the morning to join a photo shoot walking tour. The tour was led by a French photographer who has lived in Hoi An for three years. They visited fishing villages just as the sun was rising and the fishermen were getting going for the day. He also went to a fish sauce factory, which probably doesn’t make anyone a fan of the sauce seeing how it’s made. The French photographer recommended a more secluded beach called An Bang Beach. This time we were much more prepared and enjoyed an afternoon at the beach. Jon tried to take a nap but the winds were howling so loudly that he had to wear his headphones. We returned to our hotel to get ready for the festival. We weren’t quite sure what happens at the festival but envisioned big celebrations and lion dances. We arrived at a place for dinner that had a balcony so we could see the festivities along the river. Towards the end of dinner all the shops turned off their front lights and all the street lights were turned off. We were sure the festivities would start soon but nothing happened. After dinner we sat along the river waiting as more and more people filtered onto the streets. We were sure then something was going to happen but nothing did. At 9pm we decided there weren’t going to be any fireworks or big celebrations. The festivity was turning off the lights so people could enjoy the full moon.

We decided to head back to our hotel. On our way back to the hotel there was a huge traffic jam. Apparently the celebration was happening there as a lion troop was in the middle of an intersection for a brief performance. Everyone was stuck in place. We hopped over motorbikes to get back to our place. It was the most congested scene we had ever seen. As we arrived at our hotel the staff was waiting at the door to make sure the guests arrived home safely.

9/15/10 – 9/18/10 (ha noi)

Ha Noi – Hue

It was no fun waking up at 3:30am and being sick only made the matter worse. The light at the end of the tunnel was that we just had to get on a short one-hour flight to Hue and then we could check into our hotel and go back to sleep. The flight to Hue was pleasant and there weren’t many passengers so Jon and I each had a row to ourselves. A driver from the hotel picked us up and whisked us away to Amigo Hotel. We thought it was a funny name and not sure if they knew what the word amigo meant. We tried joking with them in Spanish but didn’t get much of a response.

After we checked into our room we drew the shades and went back to sleep. We woke up intermittently over the next two days to have meals. There was constant banging from the construction next door, which wouldn’t have been an issue if we were out during the day sightseeing. We were too sick to leave the hotel but also staying there was causing us to go stir crazy. The staff was worried about our health and offered to change rooms and gave us hot lemon tea. They took very good care of us and checked in with us every day.

We finally succumbed and bought some medicine with some help from the hotel staff. The pharmacist loaded us with medicine. If anyone has lived in Asia you will know that they take pills for everything and the doctor has you taking double doses. The pharmacist gave us three different types of medicine and told us to take two tablets of each once a day. We felt really sedated from the medicine and after a day decided to reduce the number of pills. Instead I convinced Jon that having a few local beers at a pub would kills the germs in our body just as well. While my theory didn't work it was nice to get out.

After a few days we started to feel better and explore the town. On our last full day in Hue we rented a motorbike and visited two tombs and the Citadel across the river. During the Nguyen Dynasty in the 1800-1940’s the rulers built extravagant tombs for their afterlife. The tombs have different levels with courtyards and some rulers even lived at the mausoleums before their death. The Citadel is located across the Perfume River where most of the locals live. It gave us a different flavor of life, away from the touristy areas. Within the Citadel we also visited the Thai Hoa Palace, where the emperor held official functions.

We would have liked to have seen more of Hue and tasted more of their local delicacies since the area is well known for their cuisine. But we are also glad to have gotten the rest we needed to get over our colds. We want to thank the ladies at Amigo Hotel for taking care of us. Adios!