7/21/10 (phnom penh)

Phnom Penh - Bangkok

Before going to bed I had set the alarm for 5:15am. Paul’s place has a third story balcony facing due east and this was a perfect opportunity to capture a sunrise on our final day in Cambodia. The morning didn’t disappoint. The river bank was lined with Cambodians waking up with their morning exercise routine covered by clear skies. I spent the next hour recording what turned out to be a great time lapse. I then gathered my gear and headed for the market down the street. This market opens at 4:00am each day and is consistently busy. The light was golden and it was the perfect time to capture the scene in all of its glory. 

I have to admit I am not the most comfortable dropping a camera with a rather large lens in front of unfamiliar people to get intimately tight shots. This is doubly difficult when language is a barrier as most of the people at the market didn’t speak English. Determined to stretch my comfort zone and armed with a now or never attitude I set up shop in front of two Cambodians running a Chinese donut stand. I used my best translation available which involved pointing at the camera, imitating a shutter push with my forefinger, and shaking my head yes. This was an effective technique and most quickly agreed. Over the next hour I worked very hard to get an up close and personal perspective of these “real Cambodians” and my camera generated a lot of interested from the curious locals. I was able to capture some really wonderful stuff.

I went back to Paul’s and worked on updating my essential gear blog for my business site. This was something I had been meaning to do for quite some time and it was nice to finally get it off my plate. It took most of the morning. Annie and I then lounged around a bit and watched a few episodes from the fourth season of Dexter while awaiting our departure for the airport at 5:30pm. Before leaving I wanted to hit Cafe Fresca one last time. Annie decided to hold off on food and so I was on my own. On my way back the afternoon rain set in but this wasn’t an ordinary rain, it was coming down in sheets and the streets were beginning to flood rather quickly. Unfortunately I didn’t bring the umbrella and was caught in the rainstorm and there was very little time before our driver was going to take us to the airport. I needed to make a run for it and deal with being drenched when I got to Paul’s. Traffic, as always, was crazy and as I got to the final intersection I was almost run over by a speeding tuk tuk when my flip flop suctioned to the ground as I ran through a giant puddle. I lost the flip flop and jumped out of the way. 

After returning, I dried off and gathered our luggage in preparation for departure. I had a chance to briefly say goodbye to the staff at Cafe Metro and quickly loaded everything into the van as the rain continued to stream down. Traffic was heavy but our driver, On Prum, skillfully navigated the roads as we worked on drying off in the back seat. We got to the airport with plenty of time and easily made it through security. Annie had some dinner and I called home. The flight was very smooth and took roughly 45 minutes to get back to Bangkok. When we arrived we were greeted by a special immigration officer Chef McDang had arranged for us. The officer swiftly got us through customs and to the private limo back to Chef McDang’s house. Back to living the luxurious Thai lifestyle! We stayed up for the next few hours catching up with the chef before heading to bed for some much needed rest. A solid day all around. 

7/20/10 (phnom penh)

Phnom Penh

Today was our last full day in Cambodia. It's always a bit sad leaving a place that you have come to appreciate. We have spent a lot of time in PP, which has served as our base. In the morning I went down to the market to get some more soy milk and it warmed my heart that the milk lady remembered me. When you have been traveling for an extended period of time you can feel like a constant guest since you are never in one location for too long. So when someone recognizes you, you feel like one of them rather than an outsider.

When we returned to PP we made a list of things to accomplish and one of them being our blog. We made a promise to ourselves that we would get fully caught up on our blog before leaving Cambodia. Jon had been chipping away on his personal list which included finishing the Benjamin Franklin biography, posting photos and the bamboo train video on our blog, and updating his personal website. He spent the majority of the morning working his way through his list while I updated our daily detail page.

We decided for lunch to try a Khmer restaurant that I had been reading about called Romdeng. The cool thing about the restaurant is that it works to get kids off the street by providing them with work in the restaurant under the supervision of a teacher. Like an apprenticeship. The students get on the job training as well as many important life skills. Once they reach a certain age the restaurant helps them find jobs so they don't return to the streets. The restaurant had a peaceful aura about it as everyone greets you with a prayer bow. I noticed that the students also bow to the teachers as they leave the restaurant as a sign of respect. The other thing that Romdeng is known for is their fried tarantula. We debated ordering it but decided to try other dishes. They allow half portions so we order four dishes, which turned out to be a lot of food. We had so much food that there was plenty to take home for lunch tomorrow. The food was very flavorful and the service was great. The student waitstaff were a little nervous and always had a teacher next to them. Some of them were still learning English so the teacher would translate for them. It was wonderful to see the interaction and learning taking place. It reminded me of CCA and what great impact culinary schools can have on students. I believe it's places like Romdeng that offers real life training to the youth who otherwise would be on the streets that will help Cambodian's next generation thrive.

After lunch, On Prum helped me seek out Kampot peppers. I heard that Kampot peppers are world famous so decided to purchase some for Chef McDang as a thank-you gift. After some investigating we found a shop that sells them and would deliver it to me. 

I was really full from lunch and all I could think about was a nap but Jon rallied the troop and we worked on our blog. It's a lot of work to maintain the blog and we often call it our full-time job. To post the pictures, Jon has to vet through hundreds of them and select the best ones that capture the essence of our time in a country. Then he color corrects each one of them. After he is done, he posts them on the blog. We then go in and add a caption of each one. It's quite a process. But it always feels good to close the loop on a task (if you don't know what this means read Getting Things Done...great book).

After accomplishing my blog task Jon allowed me to snooze for a bit while he continued working. He is a working machine!

We went down to Metro for our final dinner in Cambodia. We figured it was fitting since our first meal was also at Metro. We had a great time chatting with the staff, laughing at more of Mr. Dan's jokes, and saying farewell to the staff we wouldn't see the next day before leaving for the airport.

If you visit Phnom Penh and are in need of a tuk-tuk driver, we recommend On Prum. He takes pride in his tuk-tuk and his English is better than most drivers. He also has a van if you have a large party. You can contact him via 012-919-315 (international code not included) or prumon2002@yahoo.com if you would like to arrange for transportation ahead of time. He can create full-day tours depending on your interest.

7/19/10 (phnom penh)

Phnom Penh

In the morning Jon and I walked down to the market to get some soy milk and fresh tropical fruit. The local market is just a few meters from Paul's apartment and brings in a huge crowd everyday. This is where the locals come to buy their daily groceries. People buy what they need for the day so everything is fresh. The market is bustling with meat, fruit, vegetable, food, dessert, and drink stalls. It is quite a scene to witness. It has been awhile since I have been in a market like this and forget what a crazy adventure it can be. There are motorcycles whizzing by so close to you that curling your toes may save your life; the need to have a strong stomach to witness the half dead chickens lying on the table; the sensory overload as the car fumes, raw meat, sweet fruits, and yesterday's garbage are infused into one scent that your nose wrinkles at; and the crowds of people going in every direction makes it easy to lose someone (luckily Jon is much taller than the average Cambodian and sticks out in the crowd). This is awesome! No where in America can you experience this.

For less than five dollars we got a small jug of soy milk, one watermelon, one papaya, one kilo of rambutan, half kilo of logan fruit, and one kilo of mangosteen. What a bargain! One of the best things about being in Asia is all the delicious tropical fruit that is available at dirt cheap prices. We were excited about our purchase and headed back home. The only thing we didn't find at the market was muesli for breakfast. We asked the staff at Metro where we could find some and the manager said he could order it with the afternoon delivery. It's good to know people who make things happen. 

Last night we stopped in at Metro to say hi to the staff. One of the staff we had dinner with, Huch, remembered that I wanted to try Khmer food so we made plans to meet for lunch but she had something come up last minute. On Prum still took us to the restaurant she was going to take us and when we arrived we realized we had been there before. And it was On Prum who took us! After laughing about the situation, On Prum suggested a Thai restaurant near the apartment. We circled back to the apartment and along the way we picked up his daughter from summer school.

After lunch we walked back to the apartment and feasted on the fruit we bought. The fruit was sweet and delicious. As you may already guess it was time for a nap.

Then we got caught up on our finances and realized that the end of the adventure is quickly approaching. We need to start thinking of a reentry strategy. As much as I don't want to admit it we are going to need to head home in a few months. The good thing is that we'll be able to see our family and friends who we miss dearly. 

With finances looming over our head, we decided a low key evening was in order. We stayed in, read for a few hours, and then watched a couple episodes of Dexter before going to bed. Nothing like watching a serial killer TV drama to put us right to sleep.

7/18/10 (sihanoukville)

Sihanoukville - Phnom Penh

We were startled in the middle of the night by some incredibly loud thunder claps at 4am. If you follow the 1 second rule between lightning and thunder, the bolts were right on top of us. The rain continued to fall all morning as we stepped onto our tour bus headed out of town. As soon as we passed the coastal rolling hills, the sun peaked out and we were back to the bright, humid Cambodian weather we had grown accustomed to during our visit.

The bus ride was four hours and we decided to try a different company. This bus company is mostly used by tourists and they had a host that would get on the microphone and point out areas of interest as we traveled back to Phnom Penh. We also got to watch A Beautiful Mind and had limited time with the Cambodian karaoke. I used the time to listen to my Audiobook Writing Down the Bones.  The trip went pretty fast and we were back at Paul's restaurant in no time. We met with the security officer and he provided us entry into the building. We are staying in Paul's place this time around because there is still a visitor in the apartment we had stayed in previously. We will be here for the next three days until we return to Bangkok.

After a quick lunch at the Metro, Annie and I returned to Paul's for a much need afternoon nap. We were both very tired from limited sleep the prior night due to the heavy thunderstorm. Travel days always seem to wear us out as well. After the nap we planned out the next few days and what we wanted to do with our remaining time in Phnom Penh. I had an opportunity to call both sets of parents and this was the first time I got a chance to speak with my dad since leaving. It was very nice to catch up. 

After a little Skype time, Annie and I ventured out to Cafe Fresco. Neither of us was up for a big dinner after our late lunch and Fresco has a wonderful high end deli case offering quick, healthy meals. After a nice dinner, we were back to Paul's to finish out season three of Dexter. I also got a chance to do some time lapse video from the balcony of downtown Phnom Penh. A pretty tame day but it is always good to take it easy on long travel days. We are also very fortunate to be living the life of luxury in Paul's Cambodian home currently and very appreciative of the opportunity. 

7/14/10 - 7/17/10 (phnom penh)

Phnom Penh - Sihanoukville

The last leg of our exploration in Cambodia was the southern beaches along the Gulf of Thailand. We had spoken to many people and this area came highly recommended. Annie and I had an early departure from our hotel in Phnom Penh on the Paramount bus. This ride was four hours and filled with some of my favorite Cambodian karaoke. We had arranged to stay at the Reef Resort in Sihanoukville based on Paul’s recommendation and after speaking to the manager, I had a strategy to handle the frenzied tuk tuk drivers upon arrival. We hoped off the bus to a swarm of drivers and I grabbed the luggage and had the drivers gather around. I assertively told them I wanted to ride in a tuk tuk to the Reef Resort and would pay only five dollars. I took the bull by the horns, I think Annie liked it. After a little haggling, we were on our way. 

Sihanoukville is a laid back beach town lined with white sand beaches and undeveloped coastal islands. Things were beginning to pick up for this once sleepy village and it is starting to resemble the neighboring beach towns in southern Thailand. Everyone was selling a tour to the nearby islands and things were geared toward western lifestyle. It is kind of sad to see in a way, the gringo trail influenced by Lonely Planet. Then again, I guess we were contributing to it. 

The Reef Resort turned out to be located right in the center of the main street. After unpacking, Annie and I stepped out to do a little exploring. We walked down to Serendipity Beach. The beach was lined with nearly empty restaurants offering cheap beer and fresh seafood. The sand was white and the water warm. It was th rainy season as wass many of the other destinations we have visited and things were pretty quiet as a result. This town definitely had a party feel and it was the most backpackers we had seen since leaving Krabi in Thailand. 

Did I mention it was rainy season? We arrived in Sihanoukville with a week left in Cambodia and then we would return to Bangkok to resume our exploration of Thailand. When we came to the beaches we were hoping for a little sun and some relaxation on the beach. Instead over the next four days, it rained heavy and often. As a result, we haven’t had an opportunity to explore the area as much as we hoped. Instead, we did experience a multitude of dining opportunities with a heavy emphasis on Mexican being the house restaurant at the Reef Resort. The rain gave us an opportunity to catch up on the blogging. We extended for several days hoping for just one sunny day but unfortunately each day rained harder. On the final day Annie and I decided to book a ticket back to Phnom Penh. We would be staying at Paul’s place for our final few days to hang out with our friends at Cafe Metro. Like much of our trip, when the extended rain comes, it is time for us to move on and Sihanoukville was no exception.

7/13/10 (phnom penh)

Phnom Penh

I’ve talked a lot about Jon’s addiction to TV shows while denying my own addiction…noodle soups. There I have said it to the world. Everywhere we go I am in search of noodle soups. Jon wonders how I don’t get tired of eating them but I explain that every place makes them different. Now that Paul showed me where the noodle soup shop was located I decided to venture on my own this morning to get some for breakfast. I hoped they remembered me from the day before so I could have the same thing as the day before. As soon as they saw me coming I sensed that they started to look busy or away so that they didn't have to figure out what I wanted to order. I was stubborn in my quest and took no offense at all. They don’t get many tourists and I don’t speak Khmer at all. After a few finger pointing and hand gestures they understood I wanted the beef noodle soup and iced coffee with condensed milk. I’m quite happy with my accomplishment and brought the food back to Metro to show Jon. Jon was more than happy to have breakfast at Metro while I chowed down my soup.

Last night Paul’s other guest showed up while we were having dinner. The challenge was that we were staying in his room. After some quick maneuvering by Paul he got the guest situated at the hotel across the street. We felt terrible about the situation since Paul wasn’t really expecting us to stay with him. We booked a room for tonight at a boutique hotel not too far away.

We originally planned on a road trip with Paul to Kratie to check out the rare freshwater dolphins but after talking to a few people we realized it was too far of a drive for one day. Instead we decided to take the ferry across the river to silk island. We were going off the Lonely Planet grid since I couldn’t find the island in the guidebook. A lot of the silk is made on the island, hence the name. The staff at Metro said we would get a chance to see “real Cambodians.”

As soon as we crossed over to the island we entered another world. Luckily, Paul drove his Land Cruiser because the dirt roads were treacherous with lots of potholes. It was quiet with very few cars and only some people on bikes and motorbikes. Many of the houses were built on stilts to protect the people from flooding during the monsoon season. We stopped at a temple with two large lobster statues. The entire temple was painted in a lobster orange color. There were some kids playing kickball with a shoe. We later realized it was a cemetery. Not sure why there were lobsters at the front gates. We stopped for lunch at a local restaurant where they didn’t speak any English. Good thing Paul brought along a Cambodian friend who ordered for us. It was one of the more authentic Khmer restaurants we had been to in all of our time in Cambodia. Jon was a trooper and tried every dish. We later stopped at a café for some iced coffee and coke.

It was starting to get kind of late so we decided to turn around and head back to the ferry. As the ferry was taking off a huge storm came our way. Paul dropped us at our hotel. We relaxed a bit and grabbed at snack at the hotel café. The café served lots of fruit juices and had a lot of organic food for sale. I felt like we were back in San Francisco.

Over dinner Paul introduced us to a friend who works for a travel agency. Paul has been great introducing us to his friends and it has allowed us to talk to Cambodians and learn from them. His friend has done extensive traveling around the world but the US Embassy in Cambodia still refuses to give her a visa to visit the states. What is ironic is that the staff at the US Embassy seeks her out to make their travel arrangements. Their reason for denial is that she is single and they are concerned she will try to stay in the states rather than return home to Cambodia. I joked with her that she can come visit us after she's married.

We had to say our final good-byes to Paul as we were leaving for Sihanoukville the next day and he was leaving for the states and Vancouver on Friday. We had a great time with him and who would’ve guessed that two people who were born in Alpena, Michigan would meet in Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

Paul…thank you for your generous hospitality. I know you don’t like big fusses but we just wanted to let you know how much we enjoyed our adventure with you. You have opened our eyes and mind to a beautiful country we otherwise knew very little about before coming. We hope to see you in Aspen or San Francisco.

7/12/10 (phnom penh)

Phnom Penh

We joined Paul for a traditional Cambodian breakfast consisting of beef noodle soup and iced coffee with condensed milk at a local Khmer food stall. I don’t usually have noodle soup in the morning but I wasn’t complaining. It was one of the best soups I’ve had while in Asia and I loved it. I think it was a little too early in the morning for Jon especially since he watched a few more episodes after I had gone to bed. At some point Paul and I realize that he was eating the noodles with one chopstick.

By 9am it was already unbearably humid and figured it would be a good day to visit museums. We got a bit lazy after breakfast and lounged around till lunch. For lunch we decided to venture out and try another restaurant. We had lunch at the FCC, which is where all the journalists usually go. It was also located along the river and had a Cuban vibe about it. We felt as if we were cheating on the staff at the Metro. After lunch we arranged to meet On Prum’s brother at the Metro for a tour of the museums. Just as we got into his tuk tuk there was a sudden downpour of rain. Perfect day to be indoors at the museum.

Our first stop was the National Museum, which held an extensive collection of Khmer sculptures. Unfortunately, we weren’t allowed to take any photos of the displays. I know it may sound uncultured but Jon and I just aren’t museum people. The museum wasn’t that big but we walked through it in about fifteen minutes. The rain hadn’t let up but luckily all the tuk tuks have protective shades that keep us dry while sitting inside. Our next stop was the Tuol Seng Museum, which was a high school the Khmer Rouge converted into a prison called Security Prison 21 (S-21). We originally were supposed to come here during our first tour of PP but after visiting the killing fields it was too much for us. The S-21 was the largest detention and torture prison. The high school is now a museum with wall-to-wall pictures of prisoners who came through S-21. Some of the classrooms still have relics from the imprisonment. It was a very sobering and chilling experience. And the thing about it is that it only happened 32 years ago.

We were in a pretty somber mood for dinner but Raksmey, the head wait staff at Metro, who joined us for dinner lightened our mood with her charismatic personality and funny jokes. Paul suggested we try another restaurant for dinner but we were all feeling pretty comfortable at Metro so decided to stay. By this time we were very familiar with the menu and had tasted about half of the menu. You know the food is good if we’ve eaten there almost everyday and find new things to try on the menu while ordering a few of our favorite dishes. We have become fans of the Sauvignon Blanc from Sileni and order it almost at every meal. By the end of our meal we all had some great laughs and a few drinks.

Since it was pretty late in the evening we gave Raksmey a lift back to her house. On our way back Paul made a detour. I had no idea where we were going when we got out of the car. Before I knew it we were walking into the Heart of Darkness, a nightclub. I don’t know where Jon had heard about the place and he had mentioned it to Paul. I felt a bit out of place with my sundress and flip-flops but no one seemed to mind. Not before long Jon and I were dancing alongside young Cambodians. Just another Cambodian night with Paul.

7/11/10 (battambang)

Battambang – Phnom Penh

We were not looking forward to another long bus ride but it was the only way for us to get around in Cambodia. Luckily I had Dexter to keep me entertained for a few hours before my computer died on me. When we got back to PP we headed to Café Metro to meet up with Paul. We hadn’t made arrangements to stay with him and didn’t know if he had other people staying in his guest room. When the restaurant security guards saw us they escorted us upstairs assuming we would be staying there for the night. Fortunately, the room was available but Paul mentioned that someone might be coming to stay sometime in the next few days. Paul had been very accommodating and we were more than happy to book a room nearby if needed.

Bus rides wear us out so after lunch we relaxed in our room. Jon watched a few more episodes of Breaking Bad but couldn’t watch the last ten minutes of the final episode of season two because there was something wrong with the disc. He went back to the DVD store to exchange it and was told to come back later in the evening. The good news was that they would also have season three for him. They didn’t realize they were the supplier fueling Jon’s addiction.

During our first time in PP we had gotten to know the Metro staff very well. It has become our own “Cheers” place since everyone greets us with a familiar smile as we walk in. The staff is extremely friendly and always asking what places we have seen and making suggestions. We have even learned some Cambodian jokes from Mr. Dan, the bartender.

As creatures of habit, we meet Paul for drinks at Metro. And before we know it there were plates and plates of food in front of us. One of the dishes is beef with red ants. Even though I am pretty adventurous with my food I draw the line at insects (and reptiles). Paul was chomping down on the beef and said it’s one of his favorites dishes. Well, what the heck. We gave it a try. It wasn’t so bad and the dish has a nice flavor to it. Some of the ants are really big and Paul says the ones with eggs are even tastier. I’ll take his word for it. I think Chef McDang will be proud of us.

Over dinner we discussed our favorite parts of Breaking Bad and Jon shared with Paul his frustration in missing the last few minutes of the second season. Paul had all the episodes so after dinner we went up to his place to watch the end of season two and a few more episodes. Just can’t shake the addiction.

7/9/10 – 7/10/10 (siem reap)

Siem Reap – Battambang

We were a little sad to leave Matt and the River Village. It was one of our longest stays in a single location. We headed to Battambang, a 4-hour bus ride west of Siem Reap. When we arrived we hadn’t heard from our hotel on whether our reservation was confirmed and of course that meant that we didn’t have a tuk tuk driver lined up. We were the only foreigners on the bus so when we stepped off the bus we were prime targets. There were about twenty drivers surrounding us each of them vying for our attention. We ducked into the bus company’s store for some reprieve since they weren’t allowed inside. We contacted the hotel to confirm our reservation and they contacted a driver to meet us at the bus stop. Coincidentally one of the drivers clamoring over us earlier was the hotel’s designated driver. We were a bit skeptical since we have heard of stories where the driver will take you to another hotel saying that the reserved hotel is very dirty or full. After confirming with the hotel again that we had the correct driver we hopped into his tuk tuk. We quickly checked into our hotel and were relieved to be away from all the chaos. The power had gone out in the city so we decided to stay in.

This is when the addiction started. For the next twelve hours straight Jon and I laid in bed watching our pirated DVDs. If it wasn’t bad enough we were watching different TV shows on our individual laptops with headphones. While Jon was watching Breaking Bad I was getting caught up on Dexter since he had seen season one and two already. Every so often he would update me on Breaking Bad so I didn’t fall behind on another show. We only had one computer charger so we had to take turns charging our computers. Luckily, the hotel had room service so we ordered in for lunch and dinner. I can only imagine what the hotel staff must have thought of us. Here is a couple who checks into the room at 11am, doesn’t leave the room all day, and orders room service for both lunch and dinner. Oh wait. We did take a five-minute break to go downstairs to coordinate a tour for the next day. I take it back we did exercise some control over our addiction.

The next day after a marathon day of TV shows, we cleaned ourselves up for a day of sightseeing. Battambang is a sleepy town with not a lot of tourists. What drew me to Battambang was the bamboo train. The train is a simple device comprised of a four-wheel rig with a 4’ x 6’ bamboo slate on top of it and a small motor in the back. There are no walls and doors, you simply sit on the bamboo slate as it rolls down the railway. The locals use it to transport things from one town to another. We got on the train and were told to hang out to our things. We must have been speeding down the tracks at about 25-30km/hour with wind blowing in our hair. Our driver seemed to have only one speed and that was to go fast. The best part is that there is only one track so if there’s another train coming down the opposite direction one of the trains has to disassemble to let the other pass. The train with the most people/things has the right of way. As we were rolling along the track we came across opposing traffic but luckily there were two other trains with tourists behind us so we had the right of way. Everyone came to a halt and the opposing train’s driver took off the motor first, then the bamboo slate, and finally the wheel rig off the track. There isn’t much room on either side of the track so sometimes you have to crowd around the bushes to let the other train pass you by. It was a hilarious scene to witness but it was just another typical day for the locals.

After the bamboo train our tuk tuk driver took us to the only winery in Cambodia where they make rose, brandy, and some reds. They only had reds for us to try, which wasn’t bad but a bit expensive to purchase at $15/bottle. Wine in Cambodia is extremely cheap and you can get pretty good imported wine at $10/bottle. As we were heading to a dragon fruit farm we passed by a tree full of fruit bats. There must have been hundreds of them hanging upside down on the tree. It was in the middle of the day so they were all sleeping but flapping their wings to keep themselves cool. It made me itchy just looking at them.

While in Asia we’ve had the chance to try many tropical fruits and one of our favorites is the dragon fruit. It’s about the size of a mango and there are two types of dragon fruit. One is white on the inside while the other one is the color of pomegranates, which is the sweeter of the two. For some reason they use a rubber tire to guide the growth of the plant.  The plant looks like a big cactus flower growing out of the rubber tire with the dragon fruit at the tip of each leaf.

Our last stop was the Phnom Banan, a temple the locals claim to have served as the inspiration for Angkor Wat. To get to the temple you have to climb 358 steps and let me just say that it wasn’t easy. The humidity makes any type of exercise almost unbearable but I’m happy to report that we made it to the top. The temple is a lot smaller than the Angkor temples but it does provide a nice view of Battambang. After the strenuous climb we were ready to head back into town for a late lunch at Gecko Café.

We resumed our DVD addiction for a few hours before heading out to dinner. The hotel staff recommended White Rose, which seemed to be the most popular restaurant in town. Jon ordered his go-to dish…vegetables with cashew and rice while I had a delicious bowl of noodle soup.

Cambodia Bamboo Train from Annie Lin on Vimeo.

7/3/10 - 7/8/10 (phnom penh)

Phnom Penh - Siem Reap

Siem Reap is the big draw in Cambodia. After spending a handful of days in Phnom Penh, we were ready to venture outward and check out this tourist friendly city to the north. Siem Reap is five hours from PP and the trip fell in line with our past bus adventures. The bus can be a little crazy and this one provided five solid hours of Cambodian karaoke. Good times! Annie and I are getting smarter and now try to book accommodations in advance so we aren’t scrambling upon arrival. When you step off the bus it tends to be a feeding frenzy among the tuk tuk drivers with everyone jockeying for clients. These tuk tuk drivers are out to make a buck and tend to overcharge as well as take you to the hotel that pays the biggest commission. Needless to say we try to avoid the chaos and have a plan in advance. We decided to go with the River Village Manor due to favorable reviews in Trip Advisor and Matt the owner/manager had arranged for a driver the moment we stepped off the bus. We were quickly whisked away for the five minute trip to our home stay. 

The River Village was a little off the beaten path and would become our home for the next several days. We have a tendency to book for two days and then extend as we see fit. We extended at the River Village for another four. Matt the manager was an Australian who was a little tired of Australian bureaucracy and came up to what he termed the “wild west,” that is otherwise known as Siem Reap. Over the next several days Annie and I got a chance to chat with Matt often about various topics including Cambodia, Australia, and Charlie and Coco. Charlie and Coco were to the two 6-month old parrots Matt kept at the River Village. He even took them out on occasion and they immediately made a b-line for the top of my head and provided some wonderful white decoration on my shorts. Matt turned out to be a very interesting character and was incredibly accommodating during our time at the River Village. 

The big draw in Siem Reap are the temples of Angkor. This area is the heart and soul of Cambodia. The temples were constructed during a 600 year period between AD 802 - 1432 when the Khmer empire was one of the biggest and most powerful in the world. Each God-King would try to outbuild one another and it ultimately led to the crown jewel known as Angkor Wat. The region boasted a population of over 1 million at its peak and covered an area the size of the five boroughs of Manhattan. The temples rival the remains of Machu Picchu and the Egyptian pyramids in scope and scale and take multiple days to explore and appreciate. 

Annie and I purchased a three day pass to the temples and over the next several days we explored this exotic location channeling our inner Indiana Jones. We grabbed a guide our first day to catch a sunrise and see the some of the major sites. Our guides name was Kerry and she was the youngest guide at the temples. She was a very informative and eager Cambodian girl with an incredible story of inspiration that is true of many people from this country.  Annie and I spent the two following days on our own checking out some of the more remote locations. The temples were like nothing I have seen or experienced before. I can only imagine what it would have been like to see this area thrive at its peak and it makes me wonder what people will think as they explore areas like Manhattan thousands of years from now. 

On the final day I also had an opportunity to visit the land mine museum. Cambodia has a violent history when it comes to land mines due to the occupation of the Khmer Rouge who planted millions throughout the countryside. You see the day to day effects while exploring the major Cambodian cities as many of the beggars in the streets are missing limbs. It is thought that up to three million mines still occupy the Cambodian countryside and many have shifted position due to heavy rains over the years. The land mine museum was started by Aki Ra, who from a young age planted mines for the Khmer Rouge. He has spent his adult life working to rectify this in adulthood in an attempt to “make my country safe for my people.” Ra has defused some 50,000 mines and bombs over the years. It was heartbreaking to learn more about the devastating effects of the weapons and the impact it has had on the Cambodian people. If you are looking for a worthwhile cause to support, the Cambodian Land Mine Museum Relief Fund would more than qualify. 

Siem Reap allowed us to spend several days getting a better understanding of what Cambodia is all about, the amazing temples that are the pride of a nation, the devastation of the Khmer Rouge, and the resiliency and warmth of the people. It allowed for some amazing photo opportunities and wonderful culinary experiences. We met some interesting people including an Australian family stationed in Vietnam we plan to visit in the near future. Siem Reap lived up to its billing and gave us a better appreciation for Cambodia. 

We highly recommend Kerry as a guide and can't say enough good things about her. She is very knowledgeable and studied under a veteran guide. You can reach her at (+855) 92-49-56-99, (+855) 97-98-66-848, or kerry1402f4@hotmail.com. If you stay with Matt, he can arrange for Kerry to be your guide. Any tuk-tuk driver Matt recommends is a good choice as he personally scrutinizes them before working with them.